Upon entering, the chalkboard of local brews and libations invites visitors to the counter to both peruse their offerings and order. Only then will irony hit — Outwardly radiating contemporary fashion, the menu’s a-glow with rich, traditionalism influence. Their spread is Turkish-inspired.
Don’t be fooled by supposed juxtaposition. The flavors of the former Ottoman Empire blend well with the loudness of West Coast modernity; bright pinks and sparkling blues are not out of place in the carefully-crafted weave of chromatic traditionalism.
Take a seat at a communal or at a newspaper-clad round table for 2. Explore the essence of this niche world at the bar. Hang out on the patio, and check it out.
Spitz’ menu revolves around the doner kebab, a popular street food option. The word translates from Turkish as “rotating roast,” and is a veritable meat lollipop circling a spit. You may be more familiar with its Mediterranean cousins; Greek gyro and Middle-Eastern schwarma.
Choices range from sandwiches — such as their most popular item, the Street Car Doner ($7.25) and its various, sensationalized forms — to composed entrees such as the Doner Basket ($10.50).
Worthwhile mezes, known in States as sides, include their Fried Pita Strips ($2.95) and their Street Cart Fries ($6.95), items well-suited for the imagined hustle-and-bustle of Ancient Ephesus. Greek-inspired and grease-free.
Opting for a Doner Basket, I was able to experiment in the offerings of this city-wall-worthy haven, including salad, fries, falafel, and lamb & beef meat. The plate too was topped with garlic aioli, feta, onion, green pepper, tomato, olives, pepperoncinis, and chili sauce; Fixin’s fit for any devoted traveler.
The food collage is delicious. The breezy saltiness of the meat awakens the memory of the Mediterranean. Olives of the trees are now cured from flavors of earthiness; fermented products beckoning experienced sailors. A balanced tzatziki adds the much needed coolness to this mixed-plate of heavy and light textures. The falafel resounds with garbanzo-inspired crunch. The potato fries remain comfortable right at home.
Each flavor unlocks the mystery of the whole. Za’atar and turmeric are captains, sailing away to blue ports contrasted by bleached earth amongst new creations un-scorched by fragrant air. At the end, senses return home to the present moment.
Spitz
35 E Broadway, Salt Lake City, UT 84111
(801) 364-0286
www.spitzslc.com
Rating: 5 out of 5. Reviewed by Rachel Lando on .
Rachel’s word bank stemmed from loud and harmonious roots, the diverse flavors of Miami: Judeo-, Caribbean-, and Latin-notes. Years of academic pursuit in Boston, the Middle-East, and NYC shaped her career until her stomach demanded more attention. She then manifest-ed destiny, and landed in the softer hills, canyons, and farm-to-table options of Colorado; it was out west that Rachel’s love for food found a voice and a passion, supporting efforts towards locally sustained businesses. Here in Utah she has found home.
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